Paris: My 2.5 Day Struggle

The last time I was in Paris I was 21. I had gone to the city of love for my birthday with my long distance “boyfriend” at the time. Unfortunately for him, I broke up with him there. We had even done the whole love locks bridge thing beforehand. Super cringeworthy.

Anyway, despite these uncomfortable memories, I still love Paris and was excited to go back.  Little did I know, Paris still had a bone to pick with me.

Paris day 1

The flight to Paris was great. Leon and I arrived 15 minutes before boarding, the plane was on time and I slept for the majority of it. After landing we hopped on the train. Unfortunately the ticket lady failed to mention that the railway station was on strike. We ended up having to get off at a very sketchy train station and either A) walk for 40 minutes in 30 degree weather to our destination or B) Uber. We chose to walk and poor Leon had to carry both our luggages; neither of which had wheels.

After a very sweaty walk we finally got to our Airbnb (Click here for our Airbnb). Luckily our shoebox of an Airbnb (which was expected) was in an amazing area between the 1st and 2nd district. It was all things Parisian. Trendy, clean and adorned with people watchers sipping their afternoon beverages with a cigarette in hand. I swear you could even smell freshly baked bread wafting through the air.

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We figured we would clean ourselves up and start exploring right away. I reached into my pocket for the 50 euro I had slid in there after purchasing our train tickets and low and behold, my pocket was empty.

After searching the Airbnb and every pocket in sight, we bid farewell to the money and headed out the door for some much needed food.

We walked to Miznon which is located between the 4th and 3rd district. The area itself is very cute with busy little shops lining the small cobble stone windy streets.  When we got to Minzon, there was a pretty big line but we decided to stick it out. It was well worth it. The pita wraps were warm and fresh and we got seated on a cute little couch in the back. Funny story, we also ordered a big artichoke (ugh this is so embarrassing) and were gnawing on the extremely tough and chewy leaves. It wasn’t until we were half way through (and a couple stares later) that we realized that the leaves weren’t actually edible, we were just supposed to eat the artichoke heart. I think I’m still waiting to digest those leaves.

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After walking around a bit, we decided to try and drink away our jet lag with a bottle of rose (I know, worst idea ever). We lasted all 1 hour before we zombie walked back to our Airbnb.

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After a 5 hour “nap” on our pull out couch (there was no actual bed), we dressed ourselves and headed out to hunt for some dinner. Our first destination was a small Mexican restaurant that was highly recommended via the web. However, once we arrived, we were disappointed to see a small run down restaurant with inappropriately bright florescent lighting. Still curious, we knew there was a hidden bar at the back so we walked through an unmarked door which essentially opened up to the dance floor. While it looked like a good time, we weren’t up for a liquid dinner.  A couple of Google searches later we decided to go to the extremely popular Chez Janou.  Fortunately for us, we were able to get get a table quite quickly. We had an amazing meal and a delishious bottle of French wine in the cozy old-school authentic Parisian restaurant.

Around 12am we took our full bellies and went back to the district we were staying at for a night-cap. We actually picked a restaurant almost directly adjacent from where we were staying and had two FANTASTIC Parisian beers. After this, we happily hopped across the street to our pull-out couch.

Paris day 2

Our couch/bed sunk in the centre so it was impossible for Leon and I to not be awkwardly mashed in the middle. This was actually fine because we needed to wake up early to grab seat at a breakfast spot called Holybelly that I desperately wanted to eat at. I wanted to get there at 9 when they opened so Leon and I started our morning extra early. When we got to Holybelly and walked up to the little white piece of paper tacked on the door I literally wanted to cry. It was closed for 3 weeks. Our second pick wasn’t open until 10:00 a.m. so we had some time to kill. We grabbed a coffee to go and slowly made our way to our second pick, Buvette. But not before stopping at three bakeries on the way. When in Paris ammirighhtt.

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From the fresh squeezed orange juice, to the classy rustic Parisian décor, Buvette was amazing! And because we got there so early we basically had the place to ourselves.

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The clouds started to look angry so we popped into La Compagnie du Café with our laptops in tow.  Leon had a little work to catch up on and I can always tinker around with my blog so we perched up for 2 hours at this spacious cafe while the weather did it’s thing.

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IMG_5058-1.jpgWhen the sun started to peak out, we headed to the nearest market to get a bottle of wine, some cheese and a baguette for a relaxing Eiffel tower picnic. I ended up buying some nasty artichoke brie by accident. Worst. Weirdly enough, it was SWELTERING hot outside by the time we exited the market. We had our picnic on the grassy area underneath the Eiffel tower then headed to Laduree for some macaroons for the road (if you didn’t eat macaroons in Paris, did you even go to Paris?).

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IMG_5008-1.jpgAfter an entire morning and afternoon of walking I had developed two massive blisters on the bottoms of my feet. We came up with the amazing idea of renting public bikes. After paying 10 euro for the bike sign-up fee and standing at a bike kiosk puzzling over the machines for a good half an hour, we realized none of the bikes actually worked.  We decided to try our luck at a second station which I limped to.  We plunked in our sign-up code into all 4 of the bikes stationed there and NOPE, NOTHING WORKED.

We asked a teenage boy who looked like he worked for the company why none of the bikes worked. He looked at us and shrugged his shoulders and said that the bikes haven’t been working for at least 5 months. So we left, 2 hours of our life wasted and me, practically bleeding at this point.

Feeling pretty defeated, we walked to park to drink our warming cherry beers and rest my feet. After relaxing at the park, we decided to head home as a nap was in order.

After another 5 hour nap (jetlag was kicking our butts) we woke up around 10pm and debated on sleeping until our early morning flight the next day.  After a small pep talk, we got ready and headed out for some late night dinner. We ended up at a place close by called Comptoir de la Gastronomie.  We sat outside, shared a bottle of wine, a French onion soup and the best ravioli I’ve ever tasted in my life. Our moods had completely done a 180 and we were feeling much more optimistic about the end of our Paris stint.

After dinner we weren’t quite ready to call it a night so after exploring a bit, we sat down at a speakeasy which we promptly left after being jammed between two couples making out. We then made our way back to sit outside of the same restaurant we drank at the night before.  The people watching was much more fun at this time of night and before we knew it, the bottle of wine we ordered was empty.

The next morning we almost didn’t make it on our bus to the airport because one of our ticket barcodes wouldn’t scan. The man wouldn’t let us on because HIS scanning machine wasn’t working. I swear I made him scan it 50 times before it finally worked.  I was so thankful to finally get on the plane to Portugal.

Road Trip Guide: The Oregon Coast and Portland

Everything you need to know for your 4 day road-trip through the Oregon Coast to Portland.

Leon and I frequently get called Weekend Warriors (which I find hilarious).   We definitely jump on any opportunity to slip away on a mini vacation.  I work for a wonderful company that gives me Easter Friday and Easter Monday off so Leon and I decided to go on a road trip from Vancouver, BC to Portland, Oregon; stopping at various destinations along the Oregon Coast on the way.

DAY 1

We left the house an hour later than anticipated and had to pull some risky manoeuvres to cut down on the THREE HOUR border line-up.  We found a secret way to get to the front of the line quicker and I’ll never tell.

Seattle

We we starving when we arrived in Seattle around 1 p.m.  Originally, we had planned to eat at Stateside, however unbeknownst to us at the time, it’s closed on Mondays.  After a quick google search we ended up at Sitka and Spruce located inside the Melrose Market in the Capitol Hill area.  The rustic – chic décor is photo-op perfection and the food was to die for.  Leon devoured the pork sausage dish and I had the vegetarian gnocchi with cauliflower, chilli & aged cheese.  I also enjoyed a yummy Bloody Mary.  Stateside who?!  Sitka and Spruce and will now be on our list of must do’s whenever we are in Seattle!

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Side note: If you make it to Seattle for brunch, I highly recommend the trés bohemian Toulouse Petit Kitchen & Lounge.  The menu is extensive but everything sounds mouth-watering delicious.  Without a question you’ll be able find something that peaks your interest (it’s also awesome hang-over food).  I’ve tried the Acadiana Benedict and the Acadiana Scramble and they were extremely good.

Astoria

The weather was taking a turn for the worst as we approached Astoria, Oregon.  We could make out tiny bits of the little hillside city which peaked through the fog as we drove across the extremely long and eerie Astoria Bridge.  Our first and only stop in the city was at a water-front brewery “Buoy” for a Beer and some rather large oysters.  The Brewery is made up of two different areas, a wooden lodge-like bar/brewery and the restaurant.  As you walk through to the restaurant area, there is clear class on the ground allowing you to watch the wild SEA LIONS as you wait for your table!! Talk about having a beer with a view. Order the Dubbel beer.

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We then headed to Fort Stevens State Park to take a look a the shipwreck of Peter Iredale.  The beach was almost empty with only the odd couple and car making their way down the beach.  Everything was so stunning as the clouds started to lift.

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Seaside

We stayed in Seaside Oregon because by the time we decided on going on this road trip the cheapest place in Cannon beach was $600.00 + per night.  Seaside is a little tacky but charming nonetheless.  We stayed at the fairly new Ashore hotel which is just a block from the beach and has a beautiful indoor salt water pool.  This hotel was perfect. The room was massive and the bed was so comfortable.

Don’t expect to get a late night bite to eat in Seaside.  By the time were all settled and ready to go for dinner (around 8:30), every place I wanted to go was closed.  We ended up walking a block down from out hotel to an authentic Mexican Restaurant down the road which filled the gap.  After this we drove to Cannon Beach (it’s only a short drive away) and had a relaxing beer around a perfect outdoor fire-pit at Pelican Brewing.

DAY 2

Ecola State Park

We drove straight to Ecola State Park as soon as we woke up as  it is conveniently located between Seaside and Cannon Beach.  There is 5 dollar entrance fee and we had to wait in a 10 minute line to get in.  It’s well worth the wait.  If you park your car at Indian Beach and walk straight towards the undercover picnic benches and washrooms you’ll eventually see a roped off trail leading to Indian Point.  It’s closed due to erosion, however, we went anyway. We figured it would be fine because the trail was completely dry.  Here, there are breathtaking views of the ocean and cliffs. The cliffs edge in Ecola State park are jaw-dropping spectacular.  Once at the peak, we could even see the Tillamook lighthouse far far far off into the distance.  This was a highlight for me but I don’t recommend doing it if the trail is wet or if it looks unsafe to you!

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Cannon Beach

I am in love with Cannon Beach.  The first thing we did was head straight for breakfast.  We decided on Lazy Susan’s due to it’s rave reviews.  This family-run restaurant is located in a rustic little home; you feel like you’re sitting at your grandmas house.  The food was also delicious.  Leon had the eggs Benedict and I had the Mexican Omelette.

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After this, we were on our patio hunt to soak in as much sunshine as we could.  We happened upon Driftwood and had some drinks around their cute outdoor fire-pit.  We then went to Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters to grab a coffee for our stroll around Cannon Beach to check out Haystack Rock.

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Manzanita

We continued driving down south to Manzanita’s Rockaway Beach.  I slept most of the way (worst road-trip partner ever). If a relaxing, quiet beach is what you are looking for, this is the one you want to stop at. There are just a light sprinkling of people wandering the beach or windsurfing.

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Cape Meares

Honestly, I would think about skipping this spot if your end destination is Portland and you have a tight timeline like ourselves. Cape Meares is further south and makes the drive to Portland an hour longer. However, the windy road and the final stretch along Parc Bayocean Peninsula Park is stunning. We ended up walking on a sandy trail which took us through really tall grass and shrubs. After walking for 20 minutes and climbing a semi-steep hill, the grass finally parted and a beautiful quaint beach emerged.

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Portland

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We were a little bummed that we had checked in to the lovely Kimpton Hotel right after wine O’clock ended. However, we must have looked parched because the lovely receptionist sent us up to our room with complementary glasses of wine which we sipped on as we got ready for our dinner reservation at Han Oak.  Han Oak is a share style restaurant with a cozy yet upscale indoor/outdoor patio vibe.  It was really good, however, I am a pescatarian and I feel like they specialize in their more meaty dishes.

Admittedly I’m not a huge whiskey drinker but we headed to the Multnomah Whiskey Library where we luckily snagged a seat at the lower bar.  The “library” upstairs has roughly 1,000 bottles of whiskey to choose from and had a 2 hour wait (no thanks).  You don’t have to order whiskey, but, I figured this would be the place to do it.  The bartender did not disappoint and I basically chugged my delicious Whiskey Sour.  The space is much like a 1920’s speakeasy; cozy, dark and romantic. Go early around 5:00 to increase your chances of nabbing a spot upstairs.

We also had a romantic late night drink at the super trendy Pépé le Moko.  Expect a lengthy wait on Friday and Saturday nights (we had put our name in before heading to the Whiskey Library).   Pépé le Moko is a cocktail bar located in a small intimate basement with some serious mood lighting.

DAY 3

I love me a good brunch so when I looked at the rave reviews for  Mothers Bistro I couldn’t wait to give it a try.  It was PACKED!  Luckily Leon and I hadn’t yet had our morning coffee so we put our name in and then headed to The ACE Hotel.  We also stopped by Blue Star Donuts because why not?  I was actually a little surprised that there was such a long line at 10:30 am.  Do people really have donuts for breakfast?!  The Donuts were good, Mothers Bistro was AMAZING.  Leon had the frittata and I had the Salmon Hash, they come highly recommended.

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PHOTO-2757Did you even enjoy your meal if you didn’t look at it like this?

Leon and I decided to try a couple different breweries before exploring the city a little more (because that always makes it more fun, duh). Our first stop was at LABrewatory and happened to be my favorite. The interior is rustic yet modern and the beer was really, really tasty.

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Our second stop was at Ex Novo Brewing Company . It had equally as good beer as our last stop and it was super busy. We sat at a high table and shared a beer flight.

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Lastly we went to Deschutes Brewery and enjoyed another flight. These flights were massive and gave us the choice of 5 beers, so sharing one was perfect.

Leon LOVES Stumptown coffee, so we had to make a pit stop at the ever so hipster Stumptown Coffee Roasters. I find the coffee here to be a little bit bitter but I swear Leon has dreams about it.

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We had dinner at Pok pok NW.  I didn’t like it.  I read rave reviews from the Pok Pok food truck and assumed the sit down dinner would be of the same quality of food.  Safe to say, if you want authentic Thai food, try the Pok Pok food truck instead.

So apparently Portland is known for it’s Strip Clubs.  I don’t know if this is weird but Leon and I decided to check two of them out.  We went to Sassy’s which was close to our hotel but had some serious punk rock meets biker-gang vibes.  If that’s your thing then power to ya! We however, shared a beer and left.

THEN we went to Casa Diablo.  We have a friend that goes to school in Portland and she said to go to Casa Diablo “if you want to see some ratchet things and hate yourself after”.  So obviously curiosity got the best of us and we went.  I’m not going to elaborate, but there were things I saw that I would like to erase from my memory.

DAY 4

We decided to brunch at Tasty n Alder after another friend from Portland said the wait was 2 hours+ every time he tried to go.  The bonus of going to the USA when Canada has a stat holiday is that we get to go to the best restaurants while the city is at work.  They still had a little bit of a wait so we walked to a brewery down the road for some pre-brunch, picnic table flights of beer (I cant remember the name of the brewery but it used to be called Big Dog).  Don’t get whiskey flavored beer. Ever.

Tasty n Alder was simply amazing and definitely rivals Mother’s Bistro.  Leon and I shared a Mexican style starter, a fish burger (which may have been the best burger I’ve ever tasted in my life) and the Bim Bop Bowl. All while sipping on Bloody Mary’s and a couple of beers.

We hadn’t had any ice-cream on this trip yet (which is so unlike us) so we stopped at Salt and Straw located in the Richmond area.  After trying almost every flavor they had, we grabbed our cones and walked around the neighborhood.  The Richmond area is really artsy, clean and super cute.

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Multomah Falls was our last stop before embarking on our drive home.  The falls are a short 30 minutes east of Portland and were beautiful.  It was nice that we didn’t have to hike to go see them because I was stuffed to the brim with ice-cream.

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Then we headed home!

When In Rome

Sorry for the Cliché blog title

Sorry for the Cliché blog title, I had to…

So I literally almost cried about 5 minutes into arriving in Rome… and when I mean  almost cried, I curled up into a little ball, closed my eyes and almost had a full-blown anxiety attack…Driving in Rome will do that to you (don’t worry, I was in the passenger seat).  Luckily this was where we were dropping the car off.

Other than the insane driving, I loved Rome.  I had those happy feelings you get when you think to yourself, yup I would live here.  How can you not though, Rome is STUNNING!

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Where we stayed:

We stayed at an adorable Airbnb in the Rione Monti area.  It was extremely central so we really burned off all the pasta calories while walking to most of our destinations. However, we did have to take a couple of cabs (and almost got scammed by a taxi driver).  See below for what happened and how you can avoid getting ripped off.

Check out our Airbnb HERE.

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What we did:

  1. We probably did the most touristy thing we could possibly do and bought tickets for the Hop on Hop Off bus. Honestly, this is probably the best way to get a visual of all the popular places in the city.  We filled a water bottle with white wine and enjoyed the views (and the breeze).  The Hop on Hop off bus was around €25,00 per person and so unbelievably worth it.
  2. There are a couple MUST sees in Rome. The Pantheon is one of them.  It is also free to enter, but just make sure you don’t try and bring in a gelato like we did.

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  3. The Trevi Fountain is also must see and is extremely packed.  After seeing everyone’s beautiful photos which miraculously all look like they’re the only ones there, I was pretty shocked at the massive crowds (how naive of me).  If you want to get a great photo I suggest you go at the crack of dawn.Italy 2017-2330
  4. The Coliseum is obviously a must see as it is the biggest well-preserved coliseum in the world, expect there to be huge crowds as well.
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  5. Climb the Spanish steps for views of Rome. We had a heat wave in Italy when we were there and yes, it gets a little sweaty.Italy 2017-2358
  6. We drove, walked and bused by Altare della Patria; a massive marble monument. Each time we passed by we were awestruck.  You can’t miss it, it’s actually massive.  Apparently you can take the elevator to the top of it for 7 Euro, but don’t quote me, I saw this on another blog from 2014.Italy 2017-2374
  7. The Giardino Degli Aranci, or commonly know as the Garden of Oranges was perfection.   There were no oranges on the trees but the premise is so well-groomed and spectacular, it didn’t matter. Someone was getting their wedding photos done here and I was super jealous. We walked to the peak of the garden which overlooks the city and watched the sunset.
  8. If you are looking to see something way less touristy but still quite impressive, head over to the stunning Biblioteca Angelica.  It is an extremely old and beautifully charming library.  In fact, it is one of Rome’s first public libraries.  Biblioteca Angelica is still a locals library so you have to be extremely quiet.  You also wont be able to read any of the books if you aren’t fluent in Italian.  The librarian is quite aggressive and allows only one picture (I’m such a rebel, I took 2).  Go see it though, it is absolutely spectacular.

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    Okay shoot me.  Due to time constraints, we decided to skip the Vatican and put it on our list for next time.

Where We Ate/Drank

Lunch:

$ If you’re looking for a quick bite to eat or some great take-away food, head over to Pasta Chef.  It’s located only a short walk from the Colosseum and has a drool worthy menu.  They serve authentic, fresh pasta which is made daily.  The plates and cutlery are biodegradable so your meal is basically guilt free!  We decided on the risotto and the pesto pasta.  It was quick, affordable and delicious!

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Dinner:

$$ We were on the brink of getting very sick of wine so for dinner we decided to get some artisan beer and pizza at one of the hottest spots in Rome, Bir + Fud.  The place itself is buzzing with modern flare and feels very contemporary and hip.  We got there at 7:30 and were able to be seated right away, however, at 8:00 p.m. the place was packed.  If you plan on eating here after 7:30, definitely make a reservation. We shared a pizza and the buffalo mozzarella and ham calzone and ended up having a fork battle over the calzone.  It was cheesy, yummy perfection.  The beer was also spectacular and they have a massive variety to choose from.

$$$  Trattoria Monti is located a little bit away from the center of Rome but VERY worth the small trek.  Clearly this spot is a local gem as every seat was full.  Luckily for us we had made a reservation beforehand.   Trattoria Monti is a little more upper class, so expect a pricier meal.  Despite this, IT IS WORTH IT.  Plus, it has a very welcoming and cozy atmosphere, you may as well be eating at Nonas house.  We settled on an appetizer, the tortello stuffed with ricotta, egg yolk and topped with butter sage sauce and a meaty pasta dish which I forgot the name.  Each meal was incredible and exploding with flavor.  You really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu.

Coffee/drinks:

We grabbed a coffee and people watched in big brown chairs at Café Angelina.  We both had an Iced Coffee to cool down and this was the perfect spot to rest the legs.

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$$$$ We headed on over to Jerry Thomas, which is a 1930’s inspired speakeasy bar known for their killer cocktails.  We knocked on huge dark door which was located in a very dark ally and waited outside.  A man came to the door and asked for a password… which we didn’t have.  Luckily when we smiled apologetically he told us it was no problem, we would just have to wait an hour. FYI if you go, you are supposed to find the daily password on their Facebook page.  Soon after, a small family knocked on the door and gave the man the password.  The door man turned them away due to capacity reasons (the bar only holds up to 40 people), then promptly led us into the bar.

The place itself was very charming with it’s old world glamour and dark mystic vibes.  Leon and I sat at the bar and ordered two drinks; I had a Gin concoction and he ordered the Buffalo whiskey sour.  My drink was good, but his literally knocked my socks off.   I made us stay longer so I could have one of my own.  If you can, sit at the bar when you go.  Watching the mixologists is quite fascinating.

I only have one complaint, and please don’t let this deter you from going whatsoever.  The people who were standing behind us (basically touching us it was so packed) decided to light up not only a cigarette, but a cigar too!  There are no windows in this tiny bar and the big door was closed tightly.  So here we are sitting and having the most amazing (and expensive) drinks ever, and these people are smoking on us.  Luckily after about 15 minutes they got seated and left. But still – circulated air.

Tips on Taxi’s

Luckily our Airbnb was pretty central which cut down on the amount of cabs we had to take.   Out of 3 cabs I took, 1 tried to rip us off.  Leon and I were taking a cab to a Speakeasy bar one night after 10pm, the surcharge of €5,80 was already added at the beginning. The cab ride came to 13 Euro, Leon handed him a €20  and the man gave us back €2.  I told him he didn’t give us enough change and he said that there was an additional surcharge anytime after 10 p.m.  I told him the surcharge would have been added to the meter at the beginning of the trip and he frantically pointed to various maps in his cab that said nothing about a further surcharge.  After fighting with him for 2 minutes he finally gave us back our correct change.  So if you’re in Rome, watch out for these kinds of things, like being charged for a surcharge on top of a surcharge.

Here are a couple of ways to make sure you’re not spending more money on cabs than you need to:

  1. Know the surcharges:
  2. Watch out for fixed taxi prices
     If someone wants to give you a fixed price within the city – chances are you are getting ripped off.  Make sure they turn the meter on, if they don’t, get out!
  3. Check and say the amount of money you give to the cab driver
    instead of just giving the cab driver a bill, say “here is X amount of Euro”.  I’ve read taxi scams where cab drivers will switch bills and then say you haven’t given them enough money.
  4. Try to give them exact change.
    Cab drivers might pull the “I have no change” card to try and swindle a couple extra dollars from you.
  5. Grab a cab from an official taxi pickup
    This will lessen the chance of you getting picked up by an unregistered (and possibly shady) taxi cab.  Registered cabs are white and have their licence number on the side!!

Anyway, Rome was an amazing surprise.  I expected it to be a dirty city with way too many tourists but it turned out to be my favorite stop this trip.

2 Stops to Make Between Florence and Rome

Leon and I stopped in two places on our way to Rome from Florence and thought they deserved an honorable mention.

Leon and I stopped in two places on our way to Rome from Florence and thought they deserved an honorable mention.

We didn’t want to take the long way to Rome so Leon threw me his phone and told me to find a place to stop for a glass of wine along the A1 Autostrada.  After a 5 minute Google search, I settled on Altarocca Wine resort, located by Umbria, Italy.  Unfortunately, my directional skills are less than par and I missed the turn-off to go up the paved hill to our destination.  The map showed another way around, so I went with that.  Within minutes into this second route we found ourselves creeping up a bumpy dirt path that scaled a rural mountain.  We were both freaking out because the road, err- trail, was awfully narrow and extremely rocky with no places to turn around.  We trudged on with Leon saying “oh shit” the entire way; certainly a rock was going to pop one of our little feeble Fiat tires.  20 minutes into bush whacking, the brush parted ways and we passed the cutest little house perched on the mountain.  After this, the road was much better and we finally got to our destination (our blue car was now light brown). We were pleasantly surprised.  For blindly choosing a spot to stop at, we hit the jackpot.  This winery was a “wine resort” with a beautiful pool deck and bar looking over the Tuscan landscape.  We asked the employees working on the pool deck where we could go for a drink (because surely the pool was just for people who are staying at the resort), but no, they told us to sit at a table and they served us right there as we absorbed the view.  We tried 4 different wines, whites and reds and loved each one of them.  This place is a gem! At around €140 a night, we will surely be staying the next time we visit.

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Not far from Altarocca wine resort we spotted the majestic city of Orvieto, perched atop of a rocky mountain.  This was our second destination.  The drive had us spiraling around the cobblestone city walls of Orvieto.  This was nothing like I had ever seen.  Inside the walls of the town things were very quiet, however little crowds of people gathered to admire the stunning medieval Cathedral which was adorned with beautiful mosaics.  We walked around a bit but had to retreat back to the car as it was SCORCHING hot, but not before snapping a couple pictures.

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Besides all of the casualties stuck to our windshield, the terrain between Florence and Rome was beautiful as it whizzed by my window at 140 kph.

Florence: The City of Careless Exploration

Ahhh Florence, the city of careless exploration. Wandering around Florence, or shall I say Firenze, is the best way to experience the rich culture this beautiful city has to offer.

Wandering around Florence (or shall I say Firenze) aimlessly is the best way to experience the rich culture this beautiful city has to offer.  You’ll discover something impressive around every corner; whether it be mouthwatering menus, romantic alleyways, intricate sculptures or carousels smack dab in the center of a plaza.

Where we stayed:

Only stopping once in Verona to stretch our legs, we drove 6 hours from Zadar, Croatia to Florence, Italy.  We arrived at our Airbnb around 8 p.m. and were happily surprised that it was located in the very central Piazza Santa Croce, walking distance from basically everything.  We could see Basilica di Santa Croce from our room! We felt that choosing an Airbnb over a hotel gave us an authentic local experience.

Check out our Airbnb here.

Florence 2017-2071.jpgThis was 10 steps from our front door!

What we did:

Speaking of plazas, Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio are both must sees.  Even if you’re not planning on going to these plazas, you’ll eventually end wandering through anyway.  Piazza della Signoria was my favorite because of the stunning open-air sculpture exhibit.

I love a good panoramic view: when I find myself in a new city I’m always in search for the best location to marvel at a city skyline from above.  So if heights don’t make you nauseous and you are in moderately good shape, make your way to the top if Giotto’s Campanile. It will certainty make a memorable experience. But be prepared to sweat a bit though. The 463 steps to the top definitely gets the heart pumping.   There are floors which you can take breaks on along the way, but beware, the walkways are ridiculously small.  Once you get to the top of the tower you get the most beautiful, panoramic view of Florence.

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We decided to go to the Boboli Gardens an hour before closing.  The lady at the front desk was applaud we waited so late in the day to go; she almost convinced us to skip it!  Luckily a local overheard our conversation and assured us that we had enough time. She told us to start from the top of the gardens and make our way down as the gardens at the top are the most beautiful.  So we bought tickets, started from the top and took our time. We even had enough time for glass of wine and a chat with another traveling couple at the restaurant overlooking the gardens.  It was perfect because we were able to admire the views with almost no people around.   The Boboli Gardens are absolutely magical, but you don’t need longer than an two hours to admire the scenery (they kicked us out an hour after closing).  I STRONGLY recommend going here.

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Where we ate:

As you can imagine, driving for 6 hours from Zadar worked us up an appetite.  We stumbled upon a romantic outdoor patio restaurant in the semi-hidden Plazza Della Passera called 4 Leoni.  They serve artisan food, fresh pasta and delicious wine.  We had to wait for a table because the restaurant was jam packed but it was well worth it.  We shared a mouth- watering Ravioli and a bottle of their house wine, which was surprisingly really tasty.  We weren’t expecting much as we didn’t plan this meal but WOW WAS IT GOOD.

florence 2017-The aftermath.

You have to have at least one white tablecloth, candle lit dinner in Florence.   Ristorante Sant’ Ambrogio  is located in a quiet neighbourhood 7 minutes away from the Il Duomo area and was perfect for this kind of romantic meal.  This restaurant was elegant yet unpretentious and had a great ambiance.  We shared a beef tartare, risotto, tagliatelle pasta, and of course, a bottle of red wine.  It was a true Italian dining experience.

As you walk around Florence, you will eventually run into a street with line-ups down two adjacent sidewalks.  Yup, both line-ups are for sandwiches.  I thought this was hilarious until Leon insisted we try one. So, we lined up for the infamous All’antico Vinaio for half an hour.  It was actually a nice break from walking.  The people watching was pretty good too.  We decided on getting two sandwiches, the L’Inferno and the La Schiacciata Del Boss.  The L’Inferno was hands down the best.

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Located inside Piazza della Repubblica (this is the plaza with the carousel) you will find a very posh coffee shop/ bakery called Caffé Gilli.   We stood at the bar to watch the Italians work their magic behind the espresso machine. There is a 5€ price difference if you sit on the patio versus stand at the bar.  In general we found that throughout Croatia and Italy, many places charge you a “cover charge” for sitting and eating at their establishment. Usually it’s 1 – 2€.

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If you’re looking for a trendy coffee shop, head over to Ditta Artigianale.  It’s very modern despite the surrounding rustic and historic landscape.  This coffee shop was bustling the entire time we spent trying to figuring out our route from Florence to Rome.

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OH MY GOSH THE GELATO IN FLORENCE WAS AMAZING.  Yes I had two a day (for only 1 or 2 Euros each, so why the heck not?!).

A very noteworthy gelato spot was La Carraia, which is located by the river.  There was a little lineup but it went quickly. We had a scoop of the dark chocolate and the strawberry gelato.  They were unbelievably flavorful.  They have tons of flavors to choose from so you might have to go back a couple times.

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Careful – they melt quick 😉

Zadar, Zrče Beach and Plitvice Lakes

A couple days of a lot of ocean and the most beautiful Lakes I have ever seen.

This trek of the journey was eventful, to say the least.

Where we stayed

We stayed in MY FAVORITE Airbnb of the trip right in the center of the city.  However, It was pretty loud in the room at night (until about 1am) because of an open-air bar right outside the windows.  Luckily we didn’t get home much sooner than 1 a.m each night!

Parking can be tricky, but luckily our Airbnb host showed us where there was free parking right outside the city (about a 7 minute walk away from our Airbnb).  The free parking was at the back of a paid parking lot on a gravel area, so it was a little tricky to find.

this was our Airbnb.

Zadar

Zadar has some “must see’s”.  The infamous Sea Organ is one of them.  You can sit on long broad steps that descend into the ocean, watch the sunset, and listen to the Sea Organ.   The Sea Organ is powered by the waves. The stronger the waves, the louder the Sea Organ is.  I suggest you go half an hour before the sunset to grab a spot.

Another must see in this area is “The Greeting to the Sun”.  It’s an outdoor light-up dance floor which is located steps away from the Sea Organ  (you can kill two birds with one stone).  Please don’t do as the tourists do and lay on the dance floor, that’s gross :).

We had drinks and breakfast smoothies (on different days) at The Garden; an outdoor garden club on top of the city walls.  At night it has a really cool relaxed slightly bourgeois vibe; they have beds in the center of the lounge and white couches surrounding the bar area.  During the day you can sit in a airy white cabana to eat your healthy meal.  They have fresh squeezed juice, fruit smoothies and healthy breakfasts.  It’s really stunning.  I don’t have any photos because I forgot to put the battery in my camera that day (this was the day after Zrče beach, you’ll put the pieces together shortly).

Zadar The Garden Lounge Menu

We went for dinner on the patio of Restaurant Bruschetta for a nibble to eat. We ended up getting a bottle of wine and a couple appetizers and only really liked the truffle bruschetta.  The pizza looked really good though (yes we messed up).  We sat beside a table of around 10 local women and watched them chain-smoke for 2 hours. HOW DO YOU EVEN TASTE YOUR FOOD.  I was almost impressed.

We rented a boat and it may have been the best decision we made our whole trip Well, other than bringing a ton of booze and one small container of warm yogurt.  Yes I did lose an entire toenail that day… luckily this mishap happened after the alcohol consumption..

Boating cost around 170 Euro for the whole day, including the gas.  Leon got his boat license the week before just in case he would need to rent one of the boats. According to the boat rental website they do require a boat license if you’re renting a bigger boat, but, no one asked to see it the day of.

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Views from our boat in Zadar Croatia

Zadar, Croatia, Boating

Plitvice Lakes National Park

We actually stopped at the Plitvice Lakes on our way to Zadar from Zagrab and JUST barley got in before they stopped letting people through.  I recommend planning on spending at least 4 hours there (before 7pm) and wear your walking shoes because that’s what you’ll be doing the entire time.  This national park was magical and there is a lot to see.

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Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park

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Zrče Beach for the day..

Getting to the island of Pag is really quite beautiful.  As you drive upwards the land gets very brown and desert-like until you eventually start descending back down to lush landscape and civilization.  Zrče is a party beach on the island of Pag with a bunch of massive day clubs where people quite literally get obliterated and make out with each other.  BUT, we were a teeny bit early in the season for all of the inappropriate festivities (the clubs weren’t packed to the brim).  We started off at Euphoria Club which was my favorite; we sat in nice loungers, jumped off of the club deck into the ocean when we got too hot and sipped on (really strong) drinks.  Somewhere between this club and our 3rd? I got tipsy and lost both of our drivers licenses and Leon’s Visa (Okay fine, I was wasted out of my little tree).  To be fair, this one club, Aquarius, was promoting a buy one JUG of mojito, get one JUG free. Anyway, Zrče is really cool and the beaches are beautiful and sandy.  Expect to see some boobs.

Here’s a sober video of myself dancing in a “pool” about 2 feet deep…

If you do go in July or August, please please please be safe. It’s surprisingly easy for things to get out of hand due to the scorching sun and the aggressively strong drinks. Things can get unsafe very quickly If you don’t have a 200 pound boyfriend following you around everywhere.  Also note that the ratio from guys to girls was 5:1 – ladies watch  yo-selves.